Discussion:
Onan 8000 Quiet Diesel Fuel Filter replacement
(too old to reply)
Al Malone
2008-01-05 12:23:27 UTC
Permalink
I have to replace the fuel filter on my Onan 8000W QD model HDKAK and
before I start I want to make sure that I have the correct size flare
nut wrench. I don't know if it's a metric or SAE type or what size it is.

Can anyone tell me what size I need?

Thanks. Al
Alan Robinson
2008-01-06 05:33:02 UTC
Permalink
Post by Al Malone
I have to replace the fuel filter on my Onan 8000W QD model HDKAK and
before I start I want to make sure that I have the correct size flare nut
wrench. I don't know if it's a metric or SAE type or what size it is.
Can anyone tell me what size I need?
Thanks. Al
Al,
It's SAE - but I've never consciously noted what size it is. From
memory, either 3/8 or 7/16, but I'm not going to bet my life on it <g>. You
might want to slide underneath, swing the access door open, and use an
open-end wrench to test for the correct size - THEN head to the store for
the size flare-nut wrench you need.

Alan
Al Malone
2008-01-06 15:38:14 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Al Malone
I have to replace the fuel filter on my Onan 8000W QD model HDKAK and
before I start I want to make sure that I have the correct size flare nut
wrench. I don't know if it's a metric or SAE type or what size it is.
Can anyone tell me what size I need?
Thanks. Al
Al,
It's SAE - but I've never consciously noted what size it is. From
memory, either 3/8 or 7/16, but I'm not going to bet my life on it <g>. You
might want to slide underneath, swing the access door open, and use an
open-end wrench to test for the correct size - THEN head to the store for
the size flare-nut wrench you need.
Alan
Alan,

Thanks...... I found a friend with a set of all sizes so I jumped right
in, opened the door and replaced the filter. The small line from the
fuel pump is 7/16" and the output is 5/8".

Unfortunately the replacement did not resolve my problem. The
generator, under no-load or light load surges and sounds like it was
starving for fuel. It's not missing. Under heavy load, an air
conditioner or microwave oven it stalls instantly. Gives a code of 3/14
(Unable to regulate frequency). This is the second time that this
problem has occurred. A little over a month ago it did the same thing
and then started working OK. I was at Cummins Power South in Orlando to
get the a leaking hose from the dash A/C to the condenser replaced and
they could not find any reason for the generator problem at that time.
They thought that it might have possibly been some air in the fuel line
that worked itself out. I did run the fuel pump for a minute or so that
time and it did run OK after that.

Barring any magical cure, I'm going to schedule a service appointment at
Cummins Power South in Tampa next week if I can in. Any suggestions will
be welcome.


Regards, Al
Alan Robinson
2008-01-07 05:34:56 UTC
Permalink
Post by Al Malone
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Al Malone
I have to replace the fuel filter on my Onan 8000W QD model HDKAK and
before I start I want to make sure that I have the correct size flare
nut wrench. I don't know if it's a metric or SAE type or what size it is.
Can anyone tell me what size I need?
Thanks. Al
Al,
It's SAE - but I've never consciously noted what size it is. From
memory, either 3/8 or 7/16, but I'm not going to bet my life on it <g>.
You might want to slide underneath, swing the access door open, and use
an open-end wrench to test for the correct size - THEN head to the store
for the size flare-nut wrench you need.
Alan
Alan,
Thanks...... I found a friend with a set of all sizes so I jumped right
in, opened the door and replaced the filter. The small line from the fuel
pump is 7/16" and the output is 5/8".
Unfortunately the replacement did not resolve my problem. The generator,
under no-load or light load surges and sounds like it was starving for
fuel. It's not missing. Under heavy load, an air conditioner or
microwave oven it stalls instantly. Gives a code of 3/14 (Unable to
regulate frequency). This is the second time that this problem has
occurred. A little over a month ago it did the same thing and then
started working OK. I was at Cummins Power South in Orlando to get the a
leaking hose from the dash A/C to the condenser replaced and they could
not find any reason for the generator problem at that time. They thought
that it might have possibly been some air in the fuel line that worked
itself out. I did run the fuel pump for a minute or so that time and it
did run OK after that.
Barring any magical cure, I'm going to schedule a service appointment at
Cummins Power South in Tampa next week if I can in. Any suggestions will
be welcome.
Regards, Al
It's just a WAG, but I would suspect a crack in the fuel hose between the
tank and the genset - doesn't leak when sitting, since there's no pressure
on it, but when the pump is sucking fuel from the tank it's also getting
some air from the crack. Try disconnecting the return hose that runs from
the genset back to the tank at the genset and hold the switch in 'stop' to
run the fuel pump - see what kind of fuel volume you get as well as if it's
foamy or a solid stream. (Do have something in place to catch the fuel!).
One other possibility would be if the fuel tank vent is plugged - try it
with the fuel filler cap off and see what happens.

Alan
Al Malone
2008-01-24 13:35:49 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Al Malone
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Al Malone
I have to replace the fuel filter on my Onan 8000W QD model HDKAK and
before I start I want to make sure that I have the correct size flare
nut wrench. I don't know if it's a metric or SAE type or what size it is.
Can anyone tell me what size I need?
Thanks. Al
Al,
It's SAE - but I've never consciously noted what size it is. From
memory, either 3/8 or 7/16, but I'm not going to bet my life on it <g>.
You might want to slide underneath, swing the access door open, and use
an open-end wrench to test for the correct size - THEN head to the store
for the size flare-nut wrench you need.
Alan
Alan,
Thanks...... I found a friend with a set of all sizes so I jumped right
in, opened the door and replaced the filter. The small line from the fuel
pump is 7/16" and the output is 5/8".
Unfortunately the replacement did not resolve my problem. The generator,
under no-load or light load surges and sounds like it was starving for
fuel. It's not missing. Under heavy load, an air conditioner or
microwave oven it stalls instantly. Gives a code of 3/14 (Unable to
regulate frequency). This is the second time that this problem has
occurred. A little over a month ago it did the same thing and then
started working OK. I was at Cummins Power South in Orlando to get the a
leaking hose from the dash A/C to the condenser replaced and they could
not find any reason for the generator problem at that time. They thought
that it might have possibly been some air in the fuel line that worked
itself out. I did run the fuel pump for a minute or so that time and it
did run OK after that.
Barring any magical cure, I'm going to schedule a service appointment at
Cummins Power South in Tampa next week if I can in. Any suggestions will
be welcome.
Regards, Al
It's just a WAG, but I would suspect a crack in the fuel hose between the
tank and the genset - doesn't leak when sitting, since there's no pressure
on it, but when the pump is sucking fuel from the tank it's also getting
some air from the crack. Try disconnecting the return hose that runs from
the genset back to the tank at the genset and hold the switch in 'stop' to
run the fuel pump - see what kind of fuel volume you get as well as if it's
foamy or a solid stream. (Do have something in place to catch the fuel!).
One other possibility would be if the fuel tank vent is plugged - try it
with the fuel filler cap off and see what happens.
Alan
Alan,

An update on the resolution of my QD8000 problem....
The fix required a major repair. The inverter section of the generator
needed to be replaced. The good news is that Onan covered the
replacement cost.

Thanks for your continued contributions to this group.

Al
Alan Robinson
2008-01-25 06:18:54 UTC
Permalink
Post by Al Malone
Alan,
An update on the resolution of my QD8000 problem....
The fix required a major repair. The inverter section of the generator
needed to be replaced. The good news is that Onan covered the replacement
cost.
Good to hear it's fixed, and didn't cost you - not what I would have
expected from the reported symptoms, but esp only goes so far <g>.

Alan
Frank Howell
2008-01-25 19:08:36 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Al Malone
Alan,
An update on the resolution of my QD8000 problem....
The fix required a major repair. The inverter section of the
generator needed to be replaced. The good news is that Onan covered
the replacement cost.
Good to hear it's fixed, and didn't cost you - not what I would have
expected from the reported symptoms, but esp only goes so far <g>.
Alan
Hey Alan, I'm still working on my Onan. Evidently when I was trouble
shooting the
"no voltage" issue that was making the gen stop, I held the start switch
down too long, and the starter no longer cranks the engine. I can see it is
trying to move, but the starter is basically spinning with little effect. Do
you think it is a return spring issue?

It looks like I will have to build a table the height of the generator
compartment, so that I can disconnect the fuel and electrics and slide it
out to remove the starter.
Oh well!
--
Frank Howell
Alan Robinson
2008-01-26 03:53:54 UTC
Permalink
Post by Frank Howell
Hey Alan, I'm still working on my Onan. Evidently when I was trouble
shooting the
"no voltage" issue that was making the gen stop, I held the start switch
down too long, and the starter no longer cranks the engine. I can see it
is trying to move, but the starter is basically spinning with little
effect. Do you think it is a return spring issue?
It looks like I will have to build a table the height of the generator
compartment, so that I can disconnect the fuel and electrics and slide it
out to remove the starter.
Oh well!
The usual problem is a chewed up starter drive - the gear is nylon, so if it
doesn't clear the flywheel gear once the engine starts, it'll get chewed up
enough that it probably can't engage with the flywheel teeth any more. The
drive is available, and not very hard to change once you have the starter
out - which is sometimes but not always possible without removing the genset
(does help if you've done it before, though, as you'd be doing it entirely
by feel...).

Alan
Frank Howell
2008-01-27 17:46:06 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Frank Howell
Hey Alan, I'm still working on my Onan. Evidently when I was trouble
shooting the
"no voltage" issue that was making the gen stop, I held the start
switch down too long, and the starter no longer cranks the engine. I
can see it is trying to move, but the starter is basically spinning
with little effect. Do you think it is a return spring issue?
It looks like I will have to build a table the height of the
generator compartment, so that I can disconnect the fuel and
electrics and slide it out to remove the starter.
Oh well!
The usual problem is a chewed up starter drive - the gear is nylon,
so if it doesn't clear the flywheel gear once the engine starts,
it'll get chewed up enough that it probably can't engage with the
flywheel teeth any more. The drive is available, and not very hard to
change once you have the starter out - which is sometimes but not
always possible without removing the genset (does help if you've done
it before, though, as you'd be doing it entirely by feel...).
Alan
Once again, thanks Alan. I just might be able to loosen the generator and
rotate it, allowing access the starter, without removing the entire genset.
--
Frank Howell
Alan Robinson
2008-01-28 05:21:03 UTC
Permalink
Post by Frank Howell
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Frank Howell
Hey Alan, I'm still working on my Onan. Evidently when I was trouble
shooting the
"no voltage" issue that was making the gen stop, I held the start
switch down too long, and the starter no longer cranks the engine. I
can see it is trying to move, but the starter is basically spinning
with little effect. Do you think it is a return spring issue?
It looks like I will have to build a table the height of the
generator compartment, so that I can disconnect the fuel and
electrics and slide it out to remove the starter.
Oh well!
The usual problem is a chewed up starter drive - the gear is nylon,
so if it doesn't clear the flywheel gear once the engine starts,
it'll get chewed up enough that it probably can't engage with the
flywheel teeth any more. The drive is available, and not very hard to
change once you have the starter out - which is sometimes but not
always possible without removing the genset (does help if you've done
it before, though, as you'd be doing it entirely by feel...).
Alan
Once again, thanks Alan. I just might be able to loosen the generator and
rotate it, allowing access the starter, without removing the entire genset.
Frank,
Two 'gotchas' to warn you about:

1. Use a thin wrench on the nut that's on the starter terminal -under-
the connection to keep it from turning when you're taking the nut
that's -above- the connection off - otherwise you'll usually wind up turning
the whole terminal post and possibly breaking the connections inside the
starter.

2. The two bolts holding the starter to the engine adapter don't go into
threaded holes in the adapter - there are cast recesses in the back of the
adapter, with nuts in them - the bolt threads into the nut, and the cast
recess keeps it from turning. You'll need to get a finger around back on the
nut to hold it into the recess when you remove the bolt - or clean up the
area a little, and use a piece of duct tape to keep the nut(s) where they
belong.

Alan
Frank Howell
2008-01-29 01:46:37 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Frank Howell
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Frank Howell
Hey Alan, I'm still working on my Onan. Evidently when I was
trouble shooting the
"no voltage" issue that was making the gen stop, I held the start
switch down too long, and the starter no longer cranks the engine.
I can see it is trying to move, but the starter is basically
spinning with little effect. Do you think it is a return spring
issue? It looks like I will have to build a table the height of the
generator compartment, so that I can disconnect the fuel and
electrics and slide it out to remove the starter.
Oh well!
The usual problem is a chewed up starter drive - the gear is nylon,
so if it doesn't clear the flywheel gear once the engine starts,
it'll get chewed up enough that it probably can't engage with the
flywheel teeth any more. The drive is available, and not very hard
to change once you have the starter out - which is sometimes but not
always possible without removing the genset (does help if you've
done it before, though, as you'd be doing it entirely by feel...).
Alan
Once again, thanks Alan. I just might be able to loosen the
generator and rotate it, allowing access the starter, without
removing the entire genset.
Frank,
1. Use a thin wrench on the nut that's on the starter terminal
-under- the connection to keep it from turning when you're taking the
nut that's -above- the connection off - otherwise you'll usually wind up
turning the whole terminal post and possibly breaking the connections
inside the starter.
2. The two bolts holding the starter to the engine adapter don't
go into threaded holes in the adapter - there are cast recesses in
the back of the adapter, with nuts in them - the bolt threads into
the nut, and the cast recess keeps it from turning. You'll need to
get a finger around back on the nut to hold it into the recess when
you remove the bolt - or clean up the area a little, and use a piece
of duct tape to keep the nut(s) where they belong.
Alan
Once again, thanks.
--
Frank Howell
Cliff
2008-01-29 03:15:36 UTC
Permalink
Post by Frank Howell
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Frank Howell
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Frank Howell
Hey Alan, I'm still working on my Onan. Evidently when I was
trouble shooting the
"no voltage" issue that was making the gen stop, I held the
start switch down too long, and the starter no longer cranks
the engine. I can see it is trying to move, but the starter
is basically spinning with little effect. Do you think it is
a return spring issue? It looks like I will have to build a
table the height of the generator compartment, so that I can
disconnect the fuel and electrics and slide it out to remove
the starter. Oh well!
The usual problem is a chewed up starter drive - the gear is
nylon, so if it doesn't clear the flywheel gear once the engine
starts, it'll get chewed up enough that it probably can't
engage with the flywheel teeth any more. The drive is
available, and not very hard to change once you have the
starter out - which is sometimes but not always possible
without removing the genset (does help if you've done it
before, though, as you'd be doing it entirely by feel...). Alan
Once again, thanks Alan. I just might be able to loosen the
generator and rotate it, allowing access the starter, without
removing the entire genset.
Frank,
1. Use a thin wrench on the nut that's on the starter terminal
-under- the connection to keep it from turning when you're taking
the nut that's -above- the connection off - otherwise you'll
usually wind up turning the whole terminal post and possibly
breaking the connections inside the starter.
2. The two bolts holding the starter to the engine adapter don't
go into threaded holes in the adapter - there are cast recesses in
the back of the adapter, with nuts in them - the bolt threads into
the nut, and the cast recess keeps it from turning. You'll need to
get a finger around back on the nut to hold it into the recess when
you remove the bolt - or clean up the area a little, and use a piece
of duct tape to keep the nut(s) where they belong.
Alan
Once again, thanks.
:-) Frank, I''m still trying to get over the idea of putting Duct Tape on
my nut(s). More and more, the folks on RORT, and what the do to their
nut(s) amazes me ... ROFL at least there's no Maytag Motor in the
experiment ... yet!

Cliff in FL - Chapter 15 SKP Rally, we are now MEMBERS!
--
If it can't be easier, Lord, make me Stronger ...

Our Web Site ... www.cj-and-m.com
Come Visit
Frank Howell
2008-01-06 17:16:39 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Al Malone
I have to replace the fuel filter on my Onan 8000W QD model HDKAK and
before I start I want to make sure that I have the correct size
flare nut wrench. I don't know if it's a metric or SAE type or what
size it is. Can anyone tell me what size I need?
Thanks. Al
Al,
It's SAE - but I've never consciously noted what size it is. From
memory, either 3/8 or 7/16, but I'm not going to bet my life on it
<g>. You might want to slide underneath, swing the access door open,
and use an open-end wrench to test for the correct size - THEN head
to the store for the size flare-nut wrench you need.
Alan
Hey Alan, just to update my Onan generator problem that has regressed, as I
was running it, the AC over voltage was still continuing and after stopping
it and starting it back up, voltages were normal until it died on me. Will
not stay running unless holding the start switch down. From what I have read
on this, this is indication of "no voltage output". I did find your trouble
shooting page on the net and I now have the service manual, so I can now
trouble shoot it by myself.

Just one question; can the converter or any of the circuits it supplies
cause any of the electronics in the generator to go bad. My converter is
original equipment.
--
Frank Howell
Alan Robinson
2008-01-07 05:42:09 UTC
Permalink
Post by Frank Howell
Just one question; can the converter or any of the circuits it supplies
cause any of the electronics in the generator to go bad. My converter is
original equipment.
I don't want to say it is impossible - but it's difficult to see how. The
only scenario I can envision would be if the converter was a switch-mode
converter -and- drawing heavy power pulses that somehow got the voltage
regulator on the genset oscillating.

Alan
Donny Democrat
2008-01-07 11:39:47 UTC
Permalink
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Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Linus Zimmerman Is A Troll Feeder
Lone Haranguer
2008-01-07 16:20:51 UTC
Permalink
A piece of history about civil rights that the Democrats want everyone
to forget.
****************
Democrats opposed the state's first and subsequent draft calls; the
abolition of slavery and hence the Emancipation Proclamation.

There were other Democrats, a smaller but still significant number, who
were sympathetic toward the aims and the suffering of the South. They
opposed the war entirely and as it progressed they became more outspoken
and more organized. In the 1862 state elections, Democrats regained
control of the state legislature. After Lincoln issued the Emancipation
Proclamation, some of these copperheads (as they were named by their
opponents) began to call for Indiana and other midwestern states to
secede and join the South.
*****************
From Indiana State History course.
LZ
Frank Howell
2008-01-07 17:19:04 UTC
Permalink
Post by Alan Robinson
Post by Frank Howell
Just one question; can the converter or any of the circuits it
supplies cause any of the electronics in the generator to go bad. My
converter is original equipment.
I don't want to say it is impossible - but it's difficult to see how.
The only scenario I can envision would be if the converter was a
switch-mode converter -and- drawing heavy power pulses that somehow
got the voltage regulator on the genset oscillating.
Alan
Thanks. When it gets warmer and dryer, I'm going to trouble shoot and
fix(hopefully).
--
Frank Howell
Dapper Dave
2008-01-06 16:39:47 UTC
Permalink
Post by Al Malone
I have to replace the fuel filter on my Onan 8000W QD model HDKAK and
before I start I want to make sure that I have the correct size flare
nut wrench. I don't know if it's a metric or SAE type or what size it is.
Can anyone tell me what size I need?
Thanks. Al
I have an Onan 7500 QD model HDKAJ. Believe it or not, the two
connections take four different size wrenches: 9/16, 7/16, 5/8, and
11/16.

Changing that filter is my least favorite maintenance task on the
Bulgemobile. I end up with an armpit full of diesel every time because
it is difficult to get one of the fittings aligned right when installing
the new filter.

I think I'll look for some duckbill vise grips at the flea markets here
in Quartzsite this week. Maybe I can get to the rubber parts of the fuel
lines and pinch them off while replacing the filter.
--
DD
Neon John
2008-01-06 16:29:24 UTC
Permalink
This post might be inappropriate. Click to display it.
Al Malone
2008-01-06 18:49:27 UTC
Permalink
Post by Neon John
Post by Dapper Dave
I think I'll look for some duckbill vise grips at the flea markets here
in Quartzsite this week. Maybe I can get to the rubber parts of the fuel
lines and pinch them off while replacing the filter.
You might want to check your quality local auto parts store (NAPA, for instance) for
a KD brand hose pincher. This tool looks like a set of pliers. It has radiused jaws
designed not to damage a hose when it pinches it off. It also has a latch to hold
the thing shut. About $10, if I recall correctly.
John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
Risk: $20 hooker, year old condom.
On the subject of NAPA, they carry the filter for about $5.00 less than
the Onan part. Same manufacturer, same part, different box.

Al
Cliff
2008-01-06 23:33:13 UTC
Permalink
Post by Al Malone
On the subject of NAPA, they carry the filter for about $5.00 less
than the Onan part. Same manufacturer, same part, different box.
Al
Al, do you know if NAPA has a crossover list? I have an Onan Generator
8HDKAK-1046J

Oil Filter
122-0833 (was 185-5801)

Fuel Filter
149-2513

Thanks,
Cliff in FL - my mechanic sez she don't do oil ... gotta hire a Mexican
:-)
Good help is so hard to find ...
--
If it can't be easier, Lord, make me Stronger ...

Our Web Side www.cj-and-m.com
Come Visit
w***@mungedhughes.net
2008-01-07 01:27:13 UTC
Permalink
Post by Cliff
Post by Al Malone
On the subject of NAPA, they carry the filter for about $5.00 less
than the Onan part. Same manufacturer, same part, different box.
Al
Al, do you know if NAPA has a crossover list? I have an Onan Generator
8HDKAK-1046J
Oil Filter
122-0833 (was 185-5801)
Fuel Filter
149-2513
Thanks,
Cliff in FL - my mechanic sez she don't do oil ... gotta hire a Mexican
:-)
Good help is so hard to find ...
Last time I needed to change the oil filter in my 8 KW QD, I could
find no=one that had a crossover - had to go to Cummins for it. Bought
a couple at that time so I would have them when needed.

George
--
Posted via a free Usenet account from http://www.teranews.com
Al Malone
2008-01-07 02:07:20 UTC
Permalink
Post by w***@mungedhughes.net
Post by Cliff
Post by Al Malone
On the subject of NAPA, they carry the filter for about $5.00 less
than the Onan part. Same manufacturer, same part, different box.
Al
Al, do you know if NAPA has a crossover list? I have an Onan Generator
8HDKAK-1046J
Oil Filter
122-0833 (was 185-5801)
Fuel Filter
149-2513
Thanks,
Cliff in FL - my mechanic sez she don't do oil ... gotta hire a Mexican
:-)
Good help is so hard to find ...
Last time I needed to change the oil filter in my 8 KW QD, I could
find no=one that had a crossover - had to go to Cummins for it. Bought
a couple at that time so I would have them when needed.
George
Hi George,

NAPA does now. In case you missed my earlier post the NAPA part is the
exact same filter as the Onan part. Same manufacturer, same part
stamping. Unfortunately the napaonline site is useless.

Al
Al Malone
2008-01-07 01:27:30 UTC
Permalink
Post by Cliff
Post by Al Malone
On the subject of NAPA, they carry the filter for about $5.00 less
than the Onan part. Same manufacturer, same part, different box.
Al
Al, do you know if NAPA has a crossover list? I have an Onan Generator
8HDKAK-1046J
Oil Filter
122-0833 (was 185-5801)
Fuel Filter
149-2513
Thanks,
Cliff in FL - my mechanic sez she don't do oil ... gotta hire a Mexican
:-)
Good help is so hard to find ...
Cliff,

Yes they do have a crossover list to Onan part numbers. The fuel filter
is Onan part #149-2513 and NAPA part #3063. I don't know about the oil
filter since I had it serviced along with chassis maintenance at Spartan
in Michigan.

They used to have capability on Internet but no more to do look up parts
for other manufacturers. It appears to have disappeared. The NAPA
counter rep was surprised and spent quite a bit of time trying to find
it on napaonline site. Call the NAPA store with the Onan number and
they will tell you if they have NAPA equivalent.

Al
Cliff
2008-01-07 02:43:02 UTC
Permalink
Post by Al Malone
Post by Cliff
Post by Al Malone
On the subject of NAPA, they carry the filter for about $5.00 less
than the Onan part. Same manufacturer, same part, different box.
Al
Al, do you know if NAPA has a crossover list? I have an Onan
Generator 8HDKAK-1046J
Oil Filter
122-0833 (was 185-5801)
Fuel Filter
149-2513
Thanks,
Cliff in FL - my mechanic sez she don't do oil ... gotta hire a
Mexican :-)
Good help is so hard to find ...
Cliff,
Yes they do have a crossover list to Onan part numbers. The fuel
filter is Onan part #149-2513 and NAPA part #3063. I don't know
about the oil filter since I had it serviced along with chassis
maintenance at Spartan in Michigan.
They used to have capability on Internet but no more to do look up
parts for other manufacturers. It appears to have disappeared. The
NAPA counter rep was surprised and spent quite a bit of time trying
to find it on napaonline site. Call the NAPA store with the Onan
number and they will tell you if they have NAPA equivalent.
Al
Thanks ... I'll be out and about Tuesday, I'll stop by.

Cliff in FL - may even pick up some Merlot ...
--
If it can't be easier, Lord, make me Stronger ...

Our Web Side www.cj-and-m.com
Come Visit
Dapper Dave
2008-01-11 17:26:59 UTC
Permalink
Post by Al Malone
Yes they do have a crossover list to Onan part numbers. The fuel filter
is Onan part #149-2513 and NAPA part #3063. I don't know about the oil
filter since I had it serviced along with chassis maintenance at Spartan
in Michigan.
They used to have capability on Internet but no more to do look up parts
for other manufacturers. It appears to have disappeared. The NAPA
counter rep was surprised and spent quite a bit of time trying to find
it on napaonline site. Call the NAPA store with the Onan number and
they will tell you if they have NAPA equivalent.
Al
It's still there:
http://www.napafilters.com/filterlookup/

Enter that Onan part # (without the dash), and you get the NAPA 3063.
--
DD
Al Malone
2008-01-13 11:18:53 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dapper Dave
Post by Al Malone
Yes they do have a crossover list to Onan part numbers. The fuel filter
is Onan part #149-2513 and NAPA part #3063. I don't know about the oil
filter since I had it serviced along with chassis maintenance at Spartan
in Michigan.
They used to have capability on Internet but no more to do look up parts
for other manufacturers. It appears to have disappeared. The NAPA
counter rep was surprised and spent quite a bit of time trying to find
it on napaonline site. Call the NAPA store with the Onan number and
they will tell you if they have NAPA equivalent.
Al
http://www.napafilters.com/filterlookup/
Enter that Onan part # (without the dash), and you get the NAPA 3063.
Thanks for the link. I could not find it from napaonline.com.

Al
Dapper Dave
2008-01-06 21:02:48 UTC
Permalink
Post by Neon John
Post by Dapper Dave
I think I'll look for some duckbill vise grips at the flea markets here
in Quartzsite this week. Maybe I can get to the rubber parts of the fuel
lines and pinch them off while replacing the filter.
You might want to check your quality local auto parts store (NAPA, for instance) for
a KD brand hose pincher. This tool looks like a set of pliers. It has radiused jaws
designed not to damage a hose when it pinches it off. It also has a latch to hold
the thing shut. About $10, if I recall correctly.
John
Thanks for the tip.
--
Dave
Neon John
2008-01-07 03:56:39 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dapper Dave
Post by Neon John
Post by Dapper Dave
I think I'll look for some duckbill vise grips at the flea markets here
in Quartzsite this week. Maybe I can get to the rubber parts of the fuel
lines and pinch them off while replacing the filter.
You might want to check your quality local auto parts store (NAPA, for instance) for
a KD brand hose pincher. This tool looks like a set of pliers. It has radiused jaws
designed not to damage a hose when it pinches it off. It also has a latch to hold
the thing shut. About $10, if I recall correctly.
John
Thanks for the tip.
You're welcome. I had a moment to look up the product. Here it is:

http://www.kd-tools.com/145.htm

I have half a dozen of these things in my toolbox. You can't imagine how much time
they save until you use them.

John
--
John De Armond
See my website for my current email address
http://www.neon-john.com
http://www.johndearmond.com <-- best little blog on the net!
Tellico Plains, Occupied TN
The secret to creativity is knowing how to hide your sources -Albert Einstein
Dapper Dave
2008-01-11 17:27:34 UTC
Permalink
Post by Neon John
Post by Dapper Dave
Post by Neon John
Post by Dapper Dave
I think I'll look for some duckbill vise grips at the flea markets here
in Quartzsite this week. Maybe I can get to the rubber parts of the fuel
lines and pinch them off while replacing the filter.
You might want to check your quality local auto parts store (NAPA, for instance) for
a KD brand hose pincher. This tool looks like a set of pliers. It has radiused jaws
designed not to damage a hose when it pinches it off. It also has a latch to hold
the thing shut. About $10, if I recall correctly.
John
Thanks for the tip.
http://www.kd-tools.com/145.htm
I have half a dozen of these things in my toolbox. You can't imagine how much time
they save until you use them.
John
I found one at Sears yesterday. $15.99.
--
DD
Al Malone
2008-01-06 18:47:30 UTC
Permalink
Post by Dapper Dave
Post by Al Malone
I have to replace the fuel filter on my Onan 8000W QD model HDKAK and
before I start I want to make sure that I have the correct size flare
nut wrench. I don't know if it's a metric or SAE type or what size it is.
Can anyone tell me what size I need?
Thanks. Al
I have an Onan 7500 QD model HDKAJ. Believe it or not, the two
connections take four different size wrenches: 9/16, 7/16, 5/8, and
11/16.
Thanks..... You forgot the 1/2" for the mounting nut! :-)
Post by Dapper Dave
Changing that filter is my least favorite maintenance task on the
Bulgemobile. I end up with an armpit full of diesel every time because
it is difficult to get one of the fittings aligned right when installing
the new filter.
The installation instructions in my owners manual emphasize the
importance of leaving the mounting nut loose until the fittings are put
together. That helped a lot. I know what you mean by the "armpit full
of diesel". I threw away the shirt that I was wearing!
Post by Dapper Dave
I think I'll look for some duckbill vise grips at the flea markets here
in Quartzsite this week. Maybe I can get to the rubber parts of the fuel
lines and pinch them off while replacing the filter.
On my unit only the hose between the pump and the filter is rubber. The
one from the filter to the engine is steel.

Al
C***@aol.com
2008-01-07 16:05:00 UTC
Permalink
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