Post by Vito MGood morning,
I pulled my coach out of storage this spring and my onan is suffering from the dreaded "only runs with the start switch depressed." The unit is a 6.5NHEFA11579P S/N:E000099421.
I have checked oil and bypassed oil switch by connecting to ground, I have voltage to brushes while cranking, 25ohms between brushes. It did not appear to be producing VAC while cranking (but I may have had the breaker turned off now that I'm thinking about it.)
I've noticed the wealth of knowledge in this conversation and am asking for some guidance as to what steps to take next.
Thank you in advance!
Here is a little tidbit that I have squirreled away from years ago when I
had the same problem. I have no idea where I got this guide, however it is
at least 15 years old. I don't remember my model # but it was an Emerald
6.5. It had a defective regulator.
You may have already tried this - but it is all I have.
~~~
The most common complaint is that the engine starts but will not keep
running when the START switch is released. This happens because the control
board will not allow the engine to continue running if the generator is not
producing voltage or if the oil pressure signal is not present.
See CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING on the Troubleshooting Chart for
your model. If the engine will not keep running, do the following:
A1. Generator AC Output Check the generator AC output voltage as soon as
the engine starts. Models showing "B1-B2 Volts" or "L1 AC Volts" under
CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING need this AC voltage to keep running.
Read between the points shown on the Troubleshooting Chart. If the AC
voltage readings are good, proceed to "B" below.
A2. Field Flash If there is no AC, check for 10-12 VDC at the FIELD FLASH
pin of the control board during cranking. If the field flash voltage is not
present, the control board is defective.
If the field flash voltage is present, the wiring or regulator may be
defective. To eliminate the wiring, check continuity between the FIELD FLASH
pin of the control board and pin 7 of the regulator. If the continuity is
good, either the regulator or the field circuit (rotor and brushes) may be
the problem.
A3 Field Circuit Check the field circuit by unplugging the regulator and
measuring the resistance between pins 9 and 10 of the regulator's mating
plug. This reading should be 22 to 28 ohms. If this reading is too high,
check the brushes and/or clean the slip rings (use the Slick Stick, or a
similar tool).
If this reading is too low, there may be a short in the rotor. Also, check
the resistance from pins 9 and 10 to ground. This reading should be very
high or infinity. If not, there is likely a ground in the rotor. If these
readings are all good, the regulator is likely defective.
A4 External Excitation To confirm that the regulator is defective, turn off
the generator's AC circuit breaker(s), reconnect the regulator and apply 12
volts through a diode to pin 9 of the regulator plug while attempting to
start the engine. CAUTION: DO NOT attempt this without the diode. If you
do, there will be fireworks! Remove the 12 volts within 1-2 seconds after
the engine starts.
If the genset now continues to run and produces normal AC voltage, the
generator is OK and the regulator is defective.
If the genset does not continue to run but produces about 40% of normal AC
voltage, again the generator is OK and the regulator is defective.
If no AC voltage is produced re-check all wiring for security and signs of
damage. If everything seems OK it may be necessary to take the unit to a
qualified repair shop.
B. Check the oil pressure switch as soon as the engine starts. If the
voltage on the LOL/LOP SW pin of the control does not go to near zero, the
switch is not closing.
These switches sometimes stick open if the generator has not been used or
exercised often enough. Multiple start/stop cycles and/or tapping on the oil
pressure switch will sometimes fix it. It may be necessary to temporarily
jumper the switch to ground to keep the engine running. This can be done at
the switch or at the OIL LOL/LOP SW pin on the control board.
Models showing "LOP Open" under CONDITIONS REQUIRED TO KEEP RUNNING
have electronic governors and require the low oil pressure switch to be
closed at starting but open during running. When the switch opens, the
governor module places a ground on the oil pressure input of the control
board (P1-5). It is OK to temporarily ground P1-5 on this model to keep the
engine running. NOTE: See chart for oil pressure and oil level switch
locations.
C. If there is AC voltage present on B1-B2 or L1 AC, as applicable, and the
correct oil pressure/level signal is present at the OIL LOL/LOP SW input of
the control board, and the engine will not keep running, the control board
is defective.
~~~
I hope this helps.
--
Jerry O.